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Countess Dierdriana, 12th C, Purples
Maureen W. Clifton
12th Century Masterpiece: Dierdriana is at Court in this view, ready to have the herald announce the top 3 people who spoke on 'Chivalry.' The almost full view is seen & other views of the bodice in closer detail are within. As well, see 'Queen Dierdriana Takes Aim' for more views of this costume. I took photos of this gown's layers, as old photos I scanned just do not do justice, so see the detailed views. The girdle hooks closed & laces in the back with cord, which means that I need assistance to get dressed. Any of us who have gowns, girdles or vests that lace down the back do! The girdle is fully lined with the same fabric as the middle gown with layers of cotton batting to stabilize it. In doing so, it keeps it from collapsing while wearing it & really does serve as a girdle, once hooked & laced into place around my middle. It took many measurements to create the correct shape. The diamond design on the bodice & the girdle is metallic cording couched on by hand, after I marked the finished girdle’s fabric with tailor’s chalk. Then, I pearl studded beaded it. The macramé trim was eventually dyed purple & beaded & is 70 inches in length & 1.5” wide. I added metallic cord in 2 colors that I braided & knotted periodically to stabilize it & it adds interest. At the end of the cording, I added golden tassels. I permanently attached the top portion of the girdle’s trim it, so it does not shift while wearing it and begins the downward curve to cross over in back. At the bottom sides of the girdle, I put cording loops for the trim to come through after it is crosses in the back & the cords are knotted in front at the bottom of the girdle. The bodice design includes different trims, all of which are seen in other parts of the gowns, couched on metallic cording, beads, pearls & golden buttons to create in the style of Celtic Interlace. The outer sleeves were lined in golden satin & stabilized on the seam with the same maroon ribbon as the macramé trim's reverse. The golden color shows through the openwork on the bottom of the sleeve. I have always loved this gown & when wearing it, receive great compliments, except one! The white trim on the girdle was dyed a deep purple, because a Master of Arms complained, saying I was wearing a white belt, when I was Queen. I had deliberately sought council of my long time Duke & Knight friends, who said that since it was trim, it was not a belt. The girdle is the belt & the trim made a striking contrast against the purple. I was assured I would be fine to use it in that way. Oh, well, some folks get their ‘knickers in a twist’ over certain things. So be it! I like the finished product, as adding the beads added sparkle & another layer of dimension. Do visit my additional close-up views in this gallery of this highly dimensional, complex & colorful outfit. My greatest COMPLIMENT: In a week, after 12th Night 1984, I finished the outer gown & took the train from Sacramento over the Cascades to Eugene, Oregon for An Tir 12th Night. Her Highness, my dear friend, the late Dowager Princess of An Tir, Janeltis, asked me to sit with her for the feast, which was lovely. She really loved my outfit and my use of so many layers of purples, lavenders & how they all blended & she liked my details of the couched on cording, beads & buttons (used as beads)on the bodice. Dear Janeltis often wore lavenders & purples herself! Some folks criticized my use of those colors. THIS IS THE HISTORY: When dying fabrics, if the material was not in the vat of dye long enough or not stabilized, it came out LAVENDER, not purple. And, some fabrics did not hold dyes as well as others! That is what dear Janeltis told me. So, when you see lavenders used in medieval costumes, be assured it was used in medieval times & these reason why! Besides that, my belief has always been that what we create in costumes in the SCA is its middle name: ‘Creative!’
Thank you for visiting my Medieval Art Gallery. © All Photos, Artwork & Costume Designs Created by Maureen & Posted on this SCA Medieval Art & Costume Gallery on Yessy. No image posted may be used without permission of Maureen W. Clifton, aka: Countess Dierdriana of the Misty Isles, Member of The Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. (SCA: www.SCA.org ). Nothing within Maureen’s/Dierdriana’s Medieval Art Gallery represents any SCA policies, regulations &/or laws in any way. Please See Maureen’s Bio & Other Yessy Art Gallery.
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| 12th C Costume - Lavenders & Purple |
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